To dinner, recently, in a new and widely-praised place in Soho. Ember Yard is, according to its website, “inspired by the primal technique of cooking simply over wood and charcoal”. In other words, it’s an expensive tapas-style BBQ – somewhat over-rated, I felt.
But perhaps I was put off from the start, to be honest, by the menu:
Dinner cooked by burning hazel and silver birch? How will the judicial services cope? Such a waste – and, frankly, I’d far rather have spend the hour or so birching a girl than eating food cooked by destroying potential implements.
But I do reckon their waitresses must be the best behaved in London, don’t you?